Milan; An Aesthetes Dream

As someone who comes to life in places that evoke a sense of inspired creativity, Milan is definitely a fun place for me to be. Taking a look at some of the places I love in a city I adore, I’m thrilled for my inner aesthete to share just a moment of reverence + appreciation for the parts of Milan that, in all their glory don’t really need to be explained but simply cherished, those contemporary touches that ignite a deep love of design + something only the Italians can do so tastefully.

I’ve been blessed to visit this playful city many times. Most recently, my Love + I spent a few nights, late this summer, one of which was with loved ones after a beautiful few weeks in Lake Como + the remaining just the two of us before catching the train up to Venice - something I absolutely recommend. Each time I visit Milan, I find another part of it I love, another corner previously undiscovered to me + somehow a somewhat deeper appreciation of it’s immensely rich culture + the incomparable vibrancy that makes it so current. What I love most about Milan perhaps are it’s modern touches. The parts of it that speak the beautiful language of contemporary design amid some of it’s more ancient expressions + backdrops. To me, in the most elegant of ways, Milan feels like the bold + more daring little sister to Rome’s more traditional heritage. It is the cooler, more fun one you want to have at your party.

I’ve stayed in several hotels over the years, but one we love + have returned to several times is Room Mate Giulia which was a recommendation from one of my best friends. It is a perfect base thanks to it’s central location while it’s amazing price point + cute vibe make for the ideal place from which to embark upon your Milanese adventure. From here everything is pretty much within walking distance (I walk a lot on city breaks so perhaps check out your own tolerance on maps) + Milan, like any city, is best enjoyed on foot, taking in the Italian capital of fashion be it on sunnier summer days or chic-ly wrapped up in your winter layers.

I always start my days in Milan at a local tabaccaio - those idyllic neighbourhood cafés where locals routinely pop in for their elegant morning espresso + a quick chat before heading off to capture their day. This most recent trip was spent taking in some of my favourite museums, coffee stops + simply strolling endlessly with my Love. In alignment with the very minimalist perspective + way of living, some of the most incredible places for me to visit are always Fondazione Prada + Armani/Silos. Both of these incredible museums warrant unlimited time to explore, relax into + soak up the endless inspired energy each is so bursting with. And then when it comes to a more old-world Italian vibe, Villa Necchi + Casa degli Atellani definitely bring the Italiano energy.

Of course there are the local masterpieces too; the famous Gothic Duomo cathedral, La Scala + Da Vinci’s The Last Supper mural are all part of the Milan experience - that wonderful aspect of Europe I love so much where ancient creations are simply just there.. to be enjoyed + embraced but without that intense commercialization of modern living. There’s an unspoken sense of cool in the coolness of it all. From the old to the new, Milan has it all. And it’s deservedly unapologetic about it too.

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The HAUTE so FABULOUS Milan List

H O T E L S // ARMANI Hotel (see my piece on it HERE) // Room Mate Giulia // Senato Hotel Milano // Magna Pars L'Hotel à Parfum // Hotel Viu Milano // Vico Milano

A R T + M U S E U M S // Fondazione Prada // Armani/Silos // Villa Necchi // Pirelli HangarBicocca // Mudec, Museum of Culture // Triennale di Milano // Villa Panza // La Vigna di Leonardo (da Vinci’s vineyard) // Casa degli Atellani

C O F F E E + G E L A T O // Sant Ambroeus // Bar Luce (see my piece on this HERE) // Pasticceria Marchesi // Emporio Armani Café // Il Massimo del Gelato // Ciacco // Gelateria Paganelli //

W I N E + D I N E // Carlo e Camilla in Segheria // Seta // Bar Basso (where the Negroni Sbagliato, a close relative of the Negroni, originated) // Trippa // UGO cocktail bar // 10 Corso Como (best for lunch in the sunshine) // Dolce + Gabbana Martini Bar (see my piece HERE) // Ceresio 7 // Bice //

S H O P S // 10 Corso Como // Antonia // Armani Libri // Nilufar Depot // Richard Ginori // Excelsior // L’Arabesque // Biffi // Antonioli // Slam Jam // Acqua di Parma // La Rinascente // GUM

Postcards from Venice

Recently, en route home from some time in Italy we decided to take advantage of the fact that, for the first time in 100 years, dolphins had been seen in Venice. With the pandemic having had an obvious effect on life as we once knew it, one of the positives is that the planet has had a second to breathe; albeit seemingly a little too late. With the decline in tourists visiting the city over the course of the past 18 months, the canals of Venice are playing host to types of wildlife that haven’t dared come near the polluted waters in over a century.

Having never been to Venice myself I was excited to experience it for the first time. So, of course, first things first, I booked us a date night at Harry’s Bar. Home to the Bellini (while I don’t really ever drink it would be my go-to cocktail of choice.. well that or a French ‘75) not to mention a whole series of historical + fabulous moments, glamorous visitors + seductive secrets, Harry’s Bar is a not-so-secret must when visiting this distinctively remarkable city.

Thankfully my younger self no longer plays a part in how we now travel. The perfectionistic part of me used to think it was imperative to see + experience absolutely everything possible no matter how short our stay somewhere. Now, without that pressure to do it all, travel is a treat to be slowly enjoyed at a much deeper level. The rich culture + historic nature of Venice is overwhelmingly intriguing + somewhere that requires little but a desire to stroll with ease + soak it all up. Beyond it’s beauty, Venice is undoubtedly awe inspiring. One must stop to take it in; the extraordinary way in which the city was first imagined + then brought to life is as though to be immersed, almost 1500 years after it’s birth, in beauty that not only envelopes your soul but transports to you an entirely other world long before this digital, fast-paced life we now find ourselves in. For this one we put our phones away (ok when I say phones I mean, more honestly, just Google Maps as if you now me, I’m always taking photos) + got entirely lost each day, strolling through the pretty streets + taking a water taxi to another part of the city; all for the simple pleasure of exploring. Unlike most who visit Venice, we didn’t take a Gondola ride through the canals - perhaps an obvious mistake on our part but it felt extremely touristy + as a walker, we were content to stay on foot.

Experiences I loved were, of course, the Prada Foundation, our sweet date night at Harry’s Bar, the glamour of the Aman, sailing past ‘Building Bridges’ by Lorenzo Quinn by night + visiting the Peggy Guggenheim collection - please consider this a must. On the contemporary side of things, I was so thrilled to water taxi over to the island of Certosa to see the Doug Aitken kaleidoscopic catwalk (an exhibit only on show at the time of this publication) which was commissioned specifically by Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello for the fashion houses menswear spring summer 2021 fashion show which took place just before we arrived. The installation was out-of-this-world incredible. Breathtaking. Unfortunately only there for a short two week stint but Doug Aitken’s mirrored house in the Swiss Alps is one of his more permanent structures to check out.

Back to Venice, the endless jaw-dropping architecture + the sheer way in which it was constructed has to cement it’s place as the coolest, most dramatically interesting city in Europe perhaps. Three nights though, I will admit, is perhaps just one too long. Were we to revisit, it would be for just two + with a specific reason to be there; say the Biennale or one day perhaps, a visit to the Opera or something fabulous like that. And without a doubt, any future visits will be out of season. It’s a place with a sense that, unless you could magically remove all the tourists (+ we were blessed to be there without that many in July this year as Europe scrambles to recover from the pandemic) needs to be experienced as intimately as possible. Venice, were it a verb, is a moment in life to immerse yourself in the depth of it’s charm, a moment to savour as privately as possible.

The HAUTE so FABULOUS Venice List

HOTELS // AMAN // Hotel Danieli // Hotel Londra Palace // San Marco Suite 755 // Belmond Hotel Cipriani // San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice // Cima Rosa

ART // The Peggy Guggenheim Collection // Fondazione Prada // Palazzo Grassi // Pinault Collection: Punta Della Dogana // Victoria Miro // Ca’ Pesaro // Grassi Palace // Scuola Grande di San Rocco // Building Bridges by Lorenzo Quinn //

THINGS TO SEE + EXPERIENCE // Wander Saint Marco Square // Visit Doge’s Palace // Enter Saint Mark’s Basilica // Take a trip to the Murano Glass Factory // Look up the history of Bridge of Sighs (people love Rialto Bridge but I much much preferred this tiny bridge + it’s history) // Take a water taxi to San Giorgio Maggiore // Climb the Campanile di San Marco //

WINE + DINE // Date night at Harry’s Bar // Dine in old-fashioned Venetian mode at Locanda Cipriani // Treat yourself to a fancy lunch at Osteria Boccardoro // Chic Cocktails at the AMAN // Alle Testiere // Da Romano // experience something incredibly local, where the chef has been at the helm for 30 years at Trattoria da Arturo

CAFFINATE // Experience the oldest cafe in Italy with great coffee at Caffè Florian // L'Obmra del Leone - I don’t suggest eating here but experience the city float by with a coffee or drink in hand, the views are unparalleled

Federico Poletti Interview

Elegantly reserved, intoxicatingly cultured and undoubtedly a force to be reckoned with in his dynamic shaping of the fashion industry, Federico Poletti is someone you can't help but want to get to know more. Upon our recent interactions I've come to learn of a person who is forever expanding the horizons and limits of the norm, all in the most genuine and grounded manner.

As founder and editorial-director of his own web magazine, Man In Town, Federico has an array of interests and interesting accolades to call his own. Having started his career in journalism while studying Art History at the University of Pisa, he has gone on to create and produce in a way that combines the truest origins of fashion itself - art, history, culture and literature. His book 'The Fashion Set', published by ROADS, takes a timeless look at the most sensational catwalk shows from the world's most notorious fashion labels (see the images throughout this post). And were I to bet my life on it, I know I'd be safe in saying that there is much more to come and so many other distinct and intriguing adventures to be lived..

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Tell me a bit about your journey into fashion journalism, where did it start? 

It all began when I started studying art history at the University of Pisa. During my studies, I was so fond of researching and writing that I decided to call an Italian art newspaper (The Art Journal) and I offered to be their correspondent for free. I was 21 years old, enthusiastic and willing to work. Then after my degree, I moved to Milan to get a Masters in Fashion Communication. I always tried to find the artistic side of fashion. That’s why I started working with new emerging designers, and travelling to discover remote Fashion Weeks all around the world- something that nowadays has become a big trend.

The industry is changing so incredibly fast with online taking huge precedence over print. Instyle UK shut down late last year and yet I hope that print never truly dies. To hold a magazine the likes of Vogue and Porter, I.D. and Love magazine brings the dream and mysteriousness of fashion to life; editorials look so much more magical on physical paper. Where do you see it going? How do you feel it will evolve?

Yes completely. The last several months have shown us that the fashion business is radically changing. Just think about the “see now buy now” concept that allows customers to buy pieces as soon as they walk down the runway instead of waiting six months between the show and when they hit the stores. So magazines need to be in tune with the times and with the needs of their readers. I think there is still space for print publications, but they must be focused and have a clear message. If lots of big magazines shut down, it opens the playing field for independent publications to be born and rise to importance. It’s also interesting to observe how online publications are developing their editorial content, typical of on-paper magazines, in order to create something new and appealing that tells a story, adding a multimedia twist, that is often linked to an online shopping experience. This is a very important development for the industry. Online and print can compliment each other, but they have to be differentiated.

You have a majorly successful career with your own publication MANINTOWN, writing for hugely influential platforms such as the Huffington Post and BOF, curating ‘The Fashion Set’ with book publisher ROADS, not to mention paving the way forward for men and women the world over, how do you keep ahead of the curve? What inspires you to remain inspired?

For me it is so important and absolutely essential to travel to remote areas in order to discover local fashion and handcraft traditions. From Korea to Colombia, up to Denmark or to Georgia, there is an incredible landscape to be discovered in art, fashion and design. During these trips I always meet interesting people who really inspire me. I’m so thankful to have this opportunity, and make sure to always stay open and listen to the amazing stories about their lives and work. Curating books, like the Fashion Set, gives me the chance to compile all my experience and share it with readers. It's a great chance to show the results of my research.

Stepping onto the scene these days has become more and more accessible to young people and the industry has perhaps become somewhat over-saturated, what emerging artists and designers stand out from the masses to you right now?

There are so many cool artists and designers working in the shadows and striving to come into the spotlight. Recently, thanks to the WHITE tradeshow and the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) we gave a young talent from Georgia the opportunity to showcase during Milan Women's Fashion Week. His name is Irakli Rusadze, designer and founder of the brand Situationist. He is 25 years old and his fashion aesthetic is a statement about the condition and charisma of women in his country, Georgia during the post-soviet era. It’s just one example of hundreds I could mention. Another one is Indian designer Suket Dhir from New Delhi, who is reviving local craft traditions in his contemporary Men’s collections. Countries beyond those of the four famous Fashion Weeks are demonstrating what incredible talents they have to offer just waiting to be discovered and promoted to the general public. 

Fashion is brought together by art and culture, current affairs, architecture, film and everything in between. It’s edgy, it’s artistic. How do you find a balance between the imaginative and the everyday?

I keep my feet on the ground and I remember to myself that fashion is commerce, a product that has to be sold. Specifically, if it is ready-to-wear it is an industrialized product (mass manufactured); whereas if it is couture or demi-couture it is a niche product, created in a more special, hand-made way closer to wearable art, yet still intended for sale to a select few.

How would you describe true style? What makes one person stand out to you more than another?

I always look at the attitude that a person reveals, going beyond the clothes. For me true style means feeling at ease and mixing pieces that break the rules (which can sometimes result in disaster if done wrong). Think about Anna Piaggi who was able to create and customize artsy looks mixing ready-to-wear and vintage. She's proven to be a great modern style icon.

Fashion month has just completed its four city tour. With bloggers and influencers taking their positions in the front row alongside high-powered editors, and season after season becoming more and more 'influential'- what are your thoughts on the digital age and the rise of the ‘influencer’?

The phenomenon of influencers is a mirror of our times and of the growing importance of the digital age. It is huge battleground between journalists, editors and influencers. But it’s not right to judge bloggers for what they do in comparison to editors. Their work is clear but it’s not meant to be journalism, even if sometimes they do write and endorse designers. I know some journalists behaving like bloggers who promote brands in a subtle way and always look to be in the spotlight. Magazines also promote brands through paid advertising. As journalists, we should think about writing in the most responsible and objective way, but with the support of the publishers.

In your own life, how have you decided what you want to do next, whom you work with and what projects you say yes to? Do you have a moral code by which you abide?

The more projects I do, the more I look for quality and professionalism. I try to be coherent with my interests, accepting to work with people who really trust in what I’m doing and follow my suggestions and critiques. Expressing honest criticism for me is more productive than saying that everything is amazing. I’m not good at selling fake dreams, but I try to do my best to make things work better. That’s my mantra and moral code.

And finally Federico, if you weren’t doing your current job, what would you choose to do?

I wish I could have been a dancer or singer. I love the performing arts in motion... maybe in my next life!

Love R x