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Fashion

Who Is.. Nick Knight

StyleRebecca O'ByrneComment
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Creativity, in all it’s messy masks, isn’t always something that reveals itself to be conventionally beautiful. It can be dark and dirty, dangerously seductive and at times, hideously painful. However, in all it’s forms, the creativity of famed fashion photographer Nick Knight is somehow consistently exquisite. Esteemed for testing the boundaries of traditional practices and the ideal beauty, he relishes innovation and continues to prevail as one of the industries leading image makers. 

Born Nicholas David Gordon in London in 1958, the young visionary studied at Bournemouth and Poole College of Art and Design which was where he published his first photography book, Skinheads. Before even completing his studies he was already one of the world’s most sought after photographers. Around this time he was commissioned by I-D magazine’s editor, Terry Jones, to produce 100 portraits for the publications fifth anniversary issue. As a consequence of the partnership came the beginnings of Knight’s future and the opportunity to work with Yohji Yamamoto, the Japanese designer, shooting his 1986 catalogue under the art director Marc Ascoli. The success of this project saw him go on to create 12 successive catalogues for the designer. 

From there Knight found himself the commissioning picture editor for i-D, work that enabled him to sharpen his craft working alongside the great Terry Jones - former art director of British Vogue and co-founder of i-D.

His reputation as an avant-garde figure in the space of progressive image-making has been hard earned and over the past three decades his lengthy career and impressive portfolio has earned him that rightful title. He continues to experiment with the latest technologies and his curiosity in such advances saw him launch his fashion website SHOWstudio.com in 2000, which he says in his own words is there to show ‘the entire creative process from conception to completion.’ His passion for the experiential has stood to him and seeing the future of film as an important medium in the industry he has acted as a leading force in offering a unique way in which we consume fashion, encouraging and nurturing the industry through the transitional age of the digital era. SHOWstudio also aims to work with the worlds most influential and yet to be discovered creative visionaries, from writers and filmmakers to photographers, illustrators and authoritative cultural personalities.  

A true perfectionist, Knight works in the exact same outfit every single time he produces. The jeans he wears are specially commissioned - as when they went out of production he just had to have them. Beyond the beautiful he has some very important themes in his work, one of which is imagined in his collaboration with Lady Gaga for whom he directed the video for her hit single Born This Way. The theme of empowerment and showing unity and community within minority groups is something he comes back to again and again in his work. Some of his most revered creative collaborations have been with leading designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen while some of his major commercial clients have included an array of global brands including Audi, Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Lauren, Levi Strauss, Mercedes Benz, Royal Opera House, and Swarovski. He is responsible for no less than 36 British Vogue covers and has shot the record covers for greats like David Bowie, Paul Weller, George Michael and Massive Attack. In 2010 he received an OBE in recognition of his contribution to the arts. 

Knight lives in Richmond, London with his wife Charlotte and their three children.

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Who Is.. Rick Owens

StyleRebecca O'ByrneComment
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Crowned the Dark Prince of design or to some the Lord of Darkness, Rick Owens is something of a gothic genius, if not, the epitome of gender neutral dressing and an originator of the idea of goth, but make it fashion.

Born Richard Saturnino Owens, on 18 November 1962 in San Joaquin Valley, California, Owens grew up in a strict and controlled Catholic environment eventually leading him to a deep desire to escape his small town upbringing and make a break for the bright lights of Hollywood. Arriving in L.A, the young designer found himself in the pre-sanitised era of the city’s evolution, a time when L.A was as unwholesome a destination as one could imagine and the hedonistic nature of the time was something he couldn’t resist. 

The American born, Paris based designer started his career in fashion studying fabrics at Otis College of Art and Design before dropping out and moving to a more technical college, gaining knowledge in pattern-making and draping, two skills he is now so infamously known for. He then went on to work for sportswear and knock-off brands around L.A. In 1990 he secured a job at Lamy, a design house headed up by designer Michelle Lamy whom Owens later became business partners with and later again married. Just four years after starting with Lamy however he broke out on his own and started his own namesake brand, showcasing his arrival as a womenswear genius. It wasn’t until 2001 though that his brilliance was truly recognised on a more global level when his work came to the attention of just about everyone in fashion, in 2001, when Anna Wintour, at the helm of Vogue, sponsored his first New York Fashion Week showcase after Kate Moss wore one of his signature leather jackets in a fashion story in French Vogue. Working with stylist Panos Yiapanis on the presentation, it was a huge success and the two have collaborated on every single Rick Owens runway show since. The following year Owens was appointed Creative Director ta Revillon, a French fur house, a post he remained in for five years.  Around this time he broke into menswear and quickly became known for his interpretation of classic silhouettes.

Owens, at one point, a self-confessed savage drinker, often spent his days and nights on massive boozy benders during a period in his life that now thankfully finds itself in his rear view after he eventually stopped upon realising he felt like death on a daily basis. He ultimately sought help to leave the party when it all got too much. A defining life event in which he had a run in with a mugger in 2003 in L.A, saw him make a permanent move to Paris with Lamy, where the two have called it home ever since. 

Over a longstanding and estimable career that has spanned 25 years, Owens has brought to life many of his creative inclinations, from sneakers - his first was named the Dustulator Dunk to furniture - he designed a collection inspired by pieces he originally designed for his Paris HQ. He has collaborated with Adidas and his collections have been the subject of many fashion exhibitions. His work was celebrated in Milan in 2017 with his first major retrospective which chronicled his career to date in a museum exhibition at the Triennale de Milano. 

His collections are always in the hottest colour of each season, black on black on black. Always black. Long t-shirts, asymmetric dresses, avant-garde yet wearable, it’s all about the simple pieces , but always making them fashion. Aesthetically he’s got a post-apocalyptic take on dark glamour, a revered niche that has been described as ‘glamour meets grunge’. He is his own thing and in his own words he says “it’s about an appreciation of teenage angst without actually having the angst”. Perhaps some might say it’s an ideal elegance build on a foundation of rock couture. 

His pieces can be found in obscure boutiques around the world and on the backs of the hottest names in popular culture including Madonna, Kate Moss, A$AP Rocky and Bieber, Cher and Fergie, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian West, fellow designer Vera Wang and Kanye West. 

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All Images via Pinterest

Brian Conway, The Interview

StyleRebecca O'ByrneComment
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Brian Conway is one of Ireland’s great creative exports. The Irish born, London based freelance stylist and creative producer is something of a dreamy genius and inventor of fashion stories, from editorial to commercial, that go beyond the visible, the evoke a sense of something so ethereal and exquisite that one can’t help but fall into the tales he tells in the shoots he styles.

Brian’s work has appeared in major fashion publications such as Tatler, British Vogue, Harpers Bazaar Spain, Rollacoaster Magazine, The Hollywood Reporter and Empire Magazine while his commercial clients include Aer Lingus, Specsavers, Guinness, L'Oreal, H&M, Volkswagon. He splits his time between his homeland and London and continues to work with the international set. Here I spoke with him about his career so far, his favourite designers and how to long-lasting capsule wardrobe..

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Brian, where did your love of fashion begin?

I was quite young! There are photos of me dressing up with my siblings from a very young age. I was also glued to fashion TV and fashion shows as a teenager, and that further fuelled my interest. Growing up in rural Ireland before social media was a thing, TV and magazines were my main outlets when it came to learning about the industry.

How did you get your start in styling?
I was exposed to styling when I was at university, where I was involved in the DIT (my college) fashion show. Through the show I met various editors and stylists which gave me a great insight into the industry in Ireland. I then moved to London for a short period of time to intern for the designer J.W Anderson where I had the opportunity to work with the brand’s renowned stylist Benjamin Bruno. I gained hands on experience with the styling, prepping the show with Benjamin, seeing the castings, fittings and backstage on the show day. I then went back to Dublin taking any knowledge with me to give styling a go. I did a test shoot for a friend who was doing a college photography project. A well known Dublin photographer saw this shoot and contacted me to shoot with them and it just spiralled from there really.

Moving to London, how does the industry differ from working in Ireland and how did you break into the industry in such a big, creative city?

It’s a completely different ball game. In Dublin I was one of the only male stylists on the scene. Moving to London I was a small fish in an ocean of bigger fish. Competition is so fierce here and to getting your foot in the door with any publication or getting to freelance with other big name stylists is incredibly challenging. I’ve been lucky to have worked with some top artists through my Vogue and LOVE magazine freelancing.

Yes, you’re a freelancer with Vogue, tell us about your work with the Bible and how that came about..

I started freelancing for British Vogue in 2017, shortly after I moved as a fashion assistant with Hannes Hetta, the following year I worked with fashion editor Jack Borkett as a fashion coordinator on the trend supplement for the Rihanna September issue cover where I got hands on experience on how to put together a magazine. I’ve been freelancing with them ever since. The knowledge I have gained from Vogue has been very useful for my career to date.

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Your editorial work is beautiful, explain to us the process of bring such amazing shoots to life and the relationship with all involved as you create from concept to the end result..

Thank you! Team work and communication are the keys to success when it comes to editorial. It’s a collaborative process between the photographer, stylist, editor, movement director, set designer, model, makeup artist and hairstylist. You need to communicate your vision clearly to execute your vision as best as possible. In terms of process, it can really vary. Ideas could stem from the stylist, a photographer or are commissioned by an editor. If an idea comes from a stylist or photographer then there’s normally a collaborative approach to refine the mood and theme the idea, in addition to the various elements involved (from location to model). After that it’s straight into pitching the publication you have in mind for the shoot. Once commissioned I’d usually dive straight into turning the idea into a reality.

Who are some of your favourite photographers and creative directors you’ve worked with?

I’m really into shooting on film right now. It adds cinematic quality to the images. I really love what Grant James Thomas and Piotr Marzec are doing right now.

How do you balance between personal taste and opinions and working on commercial projects?

When I work with commercial brands, what’s most important is helping them achieve their objectives. This often boils down to producing something that would best resonate with their target audience. Of course, there’s always room to push boundaries and inject a bit of my personal taste too. But ultimately any form of creative flair or personal input has to make sense in terms of a brand’s core identity - otherwise you’ll end up with a huge disconnect with their audience.

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Where do you find yourself most inspired or how do you continue to feel inspired to create new work?

I feel most inspired when travelling, I feel like my brain switches off from mundane everyday tasks. Seeing different cultures, architecture and art really gets my creative juices flowing. I also get inspiration from designers. If a designer produces something out of the ordinary in terms of design that I will want to shoot then that will help me lead my creative process.

What are some of your go-to designers?

I really look at what every designer has to offer. I review the collections post fashion month and have a strong database of who’s doing what for the season ahead. I love Bottega Veneta under the helm of their creative director Daniel Lee, who at the tender age of 33 has an impressive resume of Maison Margiela and Balenciaga. I also adore Noir Kei Ninomiya, he creates beautifully structured masterpieces. John Galliano for Maison Margiela is always a favourite. His work with movement director Pat Boguslawski on the SS20 Paris show is a must-see. Another brand I love right now is the PeterDo.

Are there any young up and coming designers you’re digging right now?

I love discovering new designers, I think it’s good to nurture young talent and give them a platform. I always keep an eye on the Central St Martins and London College of Fashion graduates along with the designer colleges back home in Ireland like NCAD, LSAD and The Grafton Academy. Right now I’m digging Patrycja Pagas, the UAL graduate who I have used in some of my most recent projects.

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Do you have a favourite shoot you’ve done?

It’s too hard to choose one as I like aspects from all of my shoots. Recently I got to work with Bella Hadid and Kate Moss, freelancing under the major Katie Grand and her team for the LOVE magazine. That was pretty great.

Who are your own personal style icons?

I don’t think I have any personal style icons but I really love @yanggenn88 on Instagram. I really love the Korean and Japanese style. They are so ahead of the game. In terms of red carpet I love Timothee Chalmounts looks, especially as he doesn’t work with a stylist - they are all curated by him.

Major fashion faux pas you can’t cope with..?

This is a funny one, I used to despise kitten heels a few years ago and now I’m obsessed with them and they are all the rage. Like any trend my pet hates can definitely change over time!

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Do you believe in closet editing or building?

I find it really hard to edit my wardrobe as I have a significant memory attached to each piece I’ve worn over the years. I also believe in keeping old pieces as they can be reworked with new pieces over time. If that sounds like hoarding to you or if you are into wardrobe editing you need to be cut throat. If you haven’t worn something in over 12 months then I think you should donate it to charity or sell it on Depop or whichever online platform is at your dispoal. In terms of building, it’s great to have a capsule wardrobe in mind.

What are your top tips for creating a trustworthy and long-lasting capsule wardrobe?

As I’ve matured my wardrobe mindset has majorly changed. I used to really buy into trends and I would get carried away with the low price of something. When I’m shopping now, I really think about how a new piece can work with my existing wardrobe. I think it’s really important when purchasing something new to think how it will integrate with your wardrobe and can you create three or more looks with it and what you already have. I try and stay away from fast fashion and trends and I really focus on quality and sustainability. I build my wardrobe around coats, for me that is the foundation of my look because living in Western Europe, we layer up for most of the year, a good coat can elevate any look.

Follow Brian on Instagram @briconstyle

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Images with thanks to BriConStyle.com

 

Designer Spotlight; Mother of Pearl

Style 02Rebecca O'ByrneComment
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The perfect amount of classic with a flawless touch of twist, Mother of Pearl is a brand on a mission to evolve the way we consume fashion: reducing the impact we have on the planet while always remaining style forward. Never boring and always on trend, the London based sustainable label is one of the industry’s leaders in terms of quality and contemporary design while also being uber conscious of bringing an all important element of heart and spirit to the market: a transparent label that celebrates individuality and authenticity. 

With a base in East London, the relatively young fashion label never compromises on design, creating inspired collections that bring strength to our intricacies and a softness to the power dresser within. Printed luxe fabrics and carefully designed details come together to form it’s foundations with an equal focus on casual and luxury. Each piece has a voice of it’s own and can play both roles, that of an effortless everyday wardrobe staple or with a little elevation, can be brought out for something more significant and special.

The British luxury womenswear brand was founded back in 2002. It’s current Creative Director, Amy Powney,  who joined in 2006 - just 4 years after it’s formation, began her journey within from the bottom, sweeping the floors of the cutting-room floor, working her way up to the top and stepping into the role of Creative Director in 2015. Understanding each and every element of the company as a whole, she has brought the label the forefront of the industry and continues to build the brand’s stellar reputation season by season. Informed and inspired by her upbringing in Northern England, Powney draws upon her love of the 90’s and 2000’s - the era of her teenage years and is often creatively motivated by the critical social photographers and fashion shoots of those times. 

Showing at London Fashion week and stocked at some of the world’s most prestigious retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Net-a-Porter, Harrods and Goop, Mother of Pearl is something of a modern day beauty, combining a distinctive elegance with that cooler-younger-sister-IT-girl vibe.


SHOP MOTHER OF PEARL


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Who Is.. Ellen Von Unwerth

Life 02Rebecca O'ByrneComment
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Playfully erotic images of female pop stars and models have made Ellen von Unwerth’s photographic career a seriously sexy success. Born In Frankfurt, Germany in 1954, von Unwerth’s childhood was dotted with stints in foster care and was marred with unrest. Upon graduating from high school however, her vivid imagination saw her taking a job in the circus as an assistant. She regularly performed in the travelling show’s magic acts, it was her escape and she loved it. Soon enough though her great escape presented itself and her fashion career began to take shape when she was at university in Munich on her first day when she was spotted by a modelling scout. She modelled in Munich for some time before relocating to Paris where she signed with Elite and remained in front of the camera for 10 years, booking many prestigious jobs including the cover of Cosmopolitan.

It wasn’t until her boyfriend at the time gifted her a new camera on a shoot on location in Kenya that her inner passion and gift for being behind the lens came to light. She began taking her own photos and in no time she was shooting regular campaigns. In 1989 however she really found her footing, landing a monumental project, a Guess campaign in which she shot one of the era’s newly rising models, Claudia Schiffer. The two budding stars found major fame in the moment and von Unwerth became a hot commodity overnight. Just two years later she won first prize at the International Festival of Fashion Photography earning her her place in the industry as one of it’s top fashion photographers. Her photographic style was a refreshing take on the provocative, portraying women in playful settings while drawing a seductive story in every shot; something that would continue to dictate Guess’ notoriously suggestive campaigns for over 30 years since. 

Opulently feminine and luxuriously sensual, von Unwerth’s work is instantly recognisable. She has said of her craft that “Technique undoubtedly helps make photography magical, but I prefer to work with atmosphere. I think that the obsession with technique is a male thing. I would rather search for a new model or location.” Her work has been published in major fashion publications such as VogueVanity Fair, Interview, The Face, Arena, and i-D.  and she has shot some of the most prolific and sometimes controversial campaigns in fashion history for brands like Dior, Ralph Lauren, Uniqlo, Thierry Mulger and John Galliano. 

She understands the sexy and makes it somehow sexier, something perhaps only a female photographer can do so powerfully and without objectification. Her creative prowess has spawned many mediums including her directorial work on music videos and the creative direction of some of the past decades most famed album covers, including Duran Duran’s 1990 Liberty album, Pop Life by Bananarama in 1991, Saints and Sinners by All Saints in 2000, Blackout by Britney Spears, 2007 and Talk That Talk and Rated by Rihanna. She has also been director of commercial films for brands such as Revlon, Equinox and Clinique. No matter her way of delivering beautiful images however, you can be sure that Ellen von Unwerth will always maintain her sexy distinctive style, holding her place as one of her generations most celebrated image makers. 

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SHOP ELLEN VON UNWERTH BOOKS