HAUTE so FABULOUS

European City Breaks

The Stockholm Guide

TravelRebecca O'ByrneComment
stockholm city guide

This article originally was written for Image.ie, you can see it here

There’s something about Stockholm that slips right in under your skin — a quiet elegance, a kind of measured beauty that feels both modern + deeply loyal to its own history. It’s a city defined as much by its silences as its sounds, it’s light as much as its darkness. Each time I visit, I’m struck by the softness of everything: the stillness, the space to breathe, the way the city seems to exist in perfect harmony with the elements that shape + surround it. Its winters harsh + its summers soft, Stockholm never shouts. Never demands. Instead, it invites, gently yet confidently, as it reveals itself piece by piece through mood, movement, design + atmosphere.

At its core, Stockholm is immaculate yet soulful. Its streets are clean + calm, but alive with creativity — in design, fashion, food, innovation, + architecture. Impossibly chic, yes + often highly curated, it also possesses a depth of authenticity to an entire culture that’s all its own. There’s a pride in craft + culture here that reveals itself in the smallest of details: the way pastries sit like tiny sculptures in café windows; how every restaurant feels architecturally intentional; the effortless style of the people who glide by on bike or foot, as though nobody ever feels the need to rush anywhere.

stockholm city guide

My love for the city is anchored both in what I know of it from each time we’ve visited + equally what I know I’ve yet to discover. Östermalm + Södermalm are two neighbourhoods we love, feeling like opposite notes in the same piece of music + perfect for exploring on short city breaks. Östermalm is refined, elegant, polished — the kind of place where hotels like Hotel Diplomat, Villa Dagmar, and Villa Dahlia feel perfectly at home with their warm grandeur. It’s where mornings begin slowly, perhaps with a stroll to Café Saturnus for something warming, or Café Pascal, where even just the act of coffee first thing feels purposeful. 

Or, Butiken, one of our favourites to begin the day from + watch the world go by. It’s also where you find some of the city’s great shopping destinations: Toteme, Svenskt Tenn, Palmgrens, the flagship Acne Studios, Dagmar’s new location, Soft Goat, Caia, + the iconic Nordiska Galleriet 1912 to name just a few. It’s home to beautifully curated spaces like Galerie Storm, You:Time + Malmstenbutiken — each one a nod to Scandinavian design, simplicity + that unparalleled sort of elevated living they do so well. To catch a class at Remedy is to meet yourself too, in new ways I didn’t know possible. If you can book in with my gorgeous friend Camilla for her class: The Practice, it will move you forever. Camilla also hosts classes at The Practice Apt.

If Östermalm is the city’s Upper East Side, Södermalm holds more of that Brooklyn looseness — artistic, a bit more undone but in the best way possible. Here is where you’ll find one of the most beautiful hotels any city has ever birthed: Stockholm Stadshotell + where we stayed on our most recent trip. There’s a serene intelligence to the design of this newly renovated building — a harmony of heritage, light + quiet contemporary elegance that makes staying there feel like stepping inside the essence of Stockholm’s renowned + much celebrated aesthetic. Upon exploring Södermalm, there’s an edge of bohemia to it, softened by the warmth of its cafés like Café Pascal (try any of their three locations) or Drop Coffee, along with its independent galleries + neighbourhood charm. It’s where we stroll when we want to feel the pulse of Stockholm’s contemporary culture — stores like Grandpa + Aesop, APC, Urban Deli, Acne + Asteh + spaces like Fotografiska or Steinsland Berliner. It’s also where Café Nizza sits, unfussy + perfect, with that unmistakable European neighbourhood energy.

Stockholm is a city that whispers rather than shouts, inviting you to slow down, to look closely, to savour the understated beauty woven through its streets, cafés, bookstores, galleries, harbours + those small in-between pockets of calm. Like the afternoon we wandered into NK’s book section just to escape the cold. You notice things here — the soft glow of candlelight in every restaurant (always, always candlelight), the muted palette of interiors that seems to settle your entire nervous system on sight. It’s a city that makes room for you — energetically, emotionally, creatively.

No matter the neighbourhood, the culinary world here feels tied to the city’s innate sense of intention. Dinner at Schmaltz, Fiore, Smak, Asian Post Office  or Ciccio’s feels like effortlessly slipping into the local rhythm. Brasserie Astoria has that rare ability to feel both grand + intimate in equal measure. And then there is the experience of dining at The Kitchen at Ett Hem, perhaps one of the most beautiful expressions of Stockholm’s spirit — personal, sensory, warm, deeply rooted in the art of hosting. Staying at Ett Hem itself is transformative; less a hotel, more a masterclass in thoughtful living.

stockholm city guide

And then there are the places that hold Stockholm’s cultural soul, like the Stockholm Public Library by Gunnar Asplund — an architectural masterpiece that feels almost sacred in its simplicity. Spaces that ground the city’s identity across centuries, reminding you that Stockholm so eloquently nurtures its heritage while igniting an unparalleled level of contemporary + forward moving design; here, like so many other iconic spaces, the past doesn’t compete with the present — it supports it, elevates it, informs it, like the way your footsteps echo in that circular reading room.

But what stays with me most is the mood of Stockholm itself. It holds a certain clarity, as though the air sharpens your senses. I love it in winter, when the light is blue + fleeting, the city wrapped in a kind of quiet poetry. In summer, it opens wide — glittering water, long(er) golden evenings, a softness in the air that makes everything feel possible. Every season here has its own emotional temperature, its own texture, its own invitation to discover something new. Each time I return, I fall a little more in love with its subtlety, its fineness, its grace. Stockholm isn’t a city that overwhelms you; it’s a city that seeps into you slowly, gently, profoundly — leaving you a little more inspired + invigorated yet a little more at ease too.

Stockholm city guide
Stockholm city guide
stockholm city guide
Stockholm City Guide
stockholm city guide
Stockholm city guide Sweden
 

Postcards from Venice

TravelRebecca O'Byrne
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Recently, en route home from some time in Italy we decided to take advantage of the fact that, for the first time in 100 years, dolphins had been seen in Venice. With the pandemic having had an obvious effect on life as we once knew it, one of the positives is that the planet has had a second to breathe; albeit seemingly a little too late. With the decline in tourists visiting the city over the course of the past 18 months, the canals of Venice are playing host to types of wildlife that haven’t dared come near the polluted waters in over a century.

Having never been to Venice myself I was excited to experience it for the first time. So, of course, first things first, I booked us a date night at Harry’s Bar. Home to the Bellini (while I don’t really ever drink it would be my go-to cocktail of choice.. well that or a French ‘75) not to mention a whole series of historical + fabulous moments, glamorous visitors + seductive secrets, Harry’s Bar is a not-so-secret must when visiting this distinctively remarkable city.

Thankfully my younger self no longer plays a part in how we now travel. The perfectionistic part of me used to think it was imperative to see + experience absolutely everything possible no matter how short our stay somewhere. Now, without that pressure to do it all, travel is a treat to be slowly enjoyed at a much deeper level. The rich culture + historic nature of Venice is overwhelmingly intriguing + somewhere that requires little but a desire to stroll with ease + soak it all up. Beyond it’s beauty, Venice is undoubtedly awe inspiring. One must stop to take it in; the extraordinary way in which the city was first imagined + then brought to life is as though to be immersed, almost 1500 years after it’s birth, in beauty that not only envelopes your soul but transports to you an entirely other world long before this digital, fast-paced life we now find ourselves in. For this one we put our phones away (ok when I say phones I mean, more honestly, just Google Maps as if you now me, I’m always taking photos) + got entirely lost each day, strolling through the pretty streets + taking a water taxi to another part of the city; all for the simple pleasure of exploring. Unlike most who visit Venice, we didn’t take a Gondola ride through the canals - perhaps an obvious mistake on our part but it felt extremely touristy + as a walker, we were content to stay on foot.

Experiences I loved were, of course, the Prada Foundation, our sweet date night at Harry’s Bar, the glamour of the Aman, sailing past ‘Building Bridges’ by Lorenzo Quinn by night + visiting the Peggy Guggenheim collection - please consider this a must. On the contemporary side of things, I was so thrilled to water taxi over to the island of Certosa to see the Doug Aitken kaleidoscopic catwalk (an exhibit only on show at the time of this publication) which was commissioned specifically by Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello for the fashion houses menswear spring summer 2021 fashion show which took place just before we arrived. The installation was out-of-this-world incredible. Breathtaking. Unfortunately only there for a short two week stint but Doug Aitken’s mirrored house in the Swiss Alps is one of his more permanent structures to check out.

Back to Venice, the endless jaw-dropping architecture + the sheer way in which it was constructed has to cement it’s place as the coolest, most dramatically interesting city in Europe perhaps. Three nights though, I will admit, is perhaps just one too long. Were we to revisit, it would be for just two + with a specific reason to be there; say the Biennale or one day perhaps, a visit to the Opera or something fabulous like that. And without a doubt, any future visits will be out of season. It’s a place with a sense that, unless you could magically remove all the tourists (+ we were blessed to be there without that many in July this year as Europe scrambles to recover from the pandemic) needs to be experienced as intimately as possible. Venice, were it a verb, is a moment in life to immerse yourself in the depth of it’s charm, a moment to savour as privately as possible.

The HAUTE so FABULOUS Venice List

HOTELS // AMAN // Hotel Danieli // Hotel Londra Palace // San Marco Suite 755 // Belmond Hotel Cipriani // San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice // Cima Rosa

ART // The Peggy Guggenheim Collection // Fondazione Prada // Palazzo Grassi // Pinault Collection: Punta Della Dogana // Victoria Miro // Ca’ Pesaro // Grassi Palace // Scuola Grande di San Rocco // Building Bridges by Lorenzo Quinn //

THINGS TO SEE + EXPERIENCE // Wander Saint Marco Square // Visit Doge’s Palace // Enter Saint Mark’s Basilica // Take a trip to the Murano Glass Factory // Look up the history of Bridge of Sighs (people love Rialto Bridge but I much much preferred this tiny bridge + it’s history) // Take a water taxi to San Giorgio Maggiore // Climb the Campanile di San Marco //

WINE + DINE // Date night at Harry’s Bar // Dine in old-fashioned Venetian mode at Locanda Cipriani // Treat yourself to a fancy lunch at Osteria Boccardoro // Chic Cocktails at the AMAN // Alle Testiere // Da Romano // experience something incredibly local, where the chef has been at the helm for 30 years at Trattoria da Arturo

CAFFINATE // Experience the oldest cafe in Italy with great coffee at Caffè Florian // L'Obmra del Leone - I don’t suggest eating here but experience the city float by with a coffee or drink in hand, the views are unparalleled

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